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Stink bugs in the garden: control

Stink bugs pierce fruit and pods, leaving dimpled, corky spots on tomatoes, peppers, and beans. Control them with row cover on young plants, hand-picking, and cleanup.

By Joel KellyUpdated Jun 13, 20266 min readResearch backed2 picks
Stink bugs in the garden: control

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Stink bugs are shield-shaped insects, roughly half an inch long, in shades of green, brown, or gray, named for the foul odor they release when disturbed or crushed. They feed by inserting a needle-like mouthpart into leaves, pods, and especially fruit, sucking out plant juices. The feeding itself is small, but it leaves behind a dimpled, sunken, or corky spot, often pale or yellowish, that disfigures the fruit and can open the door to secondary rot. The invasive brown marmorated stink bug has made this a bigger problem in many areas, since it feeds on a very wide range of crops and gathers in large numbers.

How to identify stink bug damage

The bugs themselves are easy to spot, and the damage has a consistent signature on fruit.

Shield shape
Broad, flat, five-sided body about half an inch long
Cloudy or corky spots
Pale, dimpled, hardened areas on tomatoes and peppers
Dimpled pods
Beans and peas show pitting and deformed seeds
Barrel-shaped eggs
Clusters of small, keg-like eggs on leaf undersides
Strong odor
A sharp, unpleasant smell when handled or crushed

On tomatoes, look for the cloudy, yellowish, slightly raised spots just under the skin, often called cloudy spot. On peppers and beans, feeding shows as pitting and deformed pods or seeds. Because the marks appear only after feeding, the priority is to keep numbers down before the fruit sets and ripens.

How to control stink bugs, step by step

1

Scout in the morning

Check plants in the cool of the morning when bugs are sluggish, looking at leaf undersides, developing fruit, and pods.

2

Hand-pick into soapy water

Knock adults and nymphs into a jar of soapy water. They are slow early in the day, so this is the most reliable single tactic.

3

Destroy egg masses

Crush the barrel-shaped egg clusters on leaf undersides before they hatch into feeding nymphs.

4

Exclude young plants

Where a crop does not need insect pollination, or before it flowers, a floating row cover keeps stink bugs off. Remove it when pollination is needed.

5

Clean up shelter

Mow or pull weedy borders and clear garden debris where stink bugs breed and overwinter, to lower the population that moves into the garden.

Row cover helps on young and pre-flowering plants

A floating row cover excludes stink bugs while plants are young, and on crops that do not need insect pollination it can stay on longer. On fruiting crops like tomatoes, peppers, and beans you will need to uncover for pollination and fruit set, so use the cover as an early-season tool and switch to scouting and hand-picking once flowers open.

Hand-picking is the dependable everyday work

Because sprays struggle against mobile adults, steady hand-picking is the backbone of home-garden control. Early morning is best, when the bugs are slow and easy to drop into soapy water. A pair of gloves makes it less unpleasant to handle them, given the odor.

Which plants are at risk, and how to plan

Stink bugs feed on a wide range of crops, with fruiting vegetables hit hardest. Tomato and pepper show cloudy, corky spots on the fruit, green beans and peas develop pitted pods and deformed seeds, and sweet corn takes feeding damage on the kernels at the ear tip. The invasive brown marmorated stink bug adds many more hosts to the list.

Timing can reduce exposure. Use the planting calendar for your ZIP to schedule plantings so the most vulnerable fruiting stage does not line up with peak stink bug numbers in late summer where possible. Knowing your frost dates helps you plan an earlier crop that fruits before populations build, or a fall crop in cooler weather.

Are stink bug marks on tomatoes safe to eat?

Yes. The cloudy, corky spots are surface and just-under-the-skin damage from feeding, not a health hazard, so you can cut away the affected area and eat the rest of the fruit. The trouble is quality and storage: damaged tomatoes look unappealing and the feeding wounds can let in rot, so heavily marked fruit may not keep well. Pick and use damaged fruit promptly rather than leaving it on the plant.

Why are sprays not very effective against stink bugs?

Stink bug adults are strong fliers that continually reinvade from surrounding weeds, woods edges, and other gardens, so even after a spray knocks down the ones present, new bugs move in. They also feed deep in the canopy and on protected fruit. For these reasons, home-garden control leans on physical tactics, scouting and hand-picking, destroying egg masses, excluding young plants with row cover, and managing weedy borders, rather than on repeated spraying.

What is the brown marmorated stink bug and why is it worse?

The brown marmorated stink bug is an invasive species, marbled brown with white bands on the antennae and legs, that has spread across much of the country. It is worse than native stink bugs because it feeds on an unusually wide range of fruits and vegetables, builds up in large numbers, and gathers on and inside houses in fall. The garden control measures are the same, but you should expect higher pressure and more persistent reinvasion where it is established.

Does cleaning up weeds and debris really help with stink bugs?

Yes. Stink bugs breed in weedy areas and shelter in garden debris and leaf litter, especially over winter, so mowing weedy borders and clearing crop residue lowers the local population that moves into your vegetables. It will not eliminate them, because they fly in from a wide area, but reducing the nearby breeding and overwintering sites is one of the few cultural tools that meaningfully cuts pressure.

The bottom line

Stink bugs disfigure fruit by piercing and feeding, and because the adults reinvade constantly, there is no single spray that solves it. Scout in the cool morning and hand-pick adults and nymphs, crush egg masses, exclude young or pre-flowering plants with row cover, and keep weedy borders and debris under control. Time vulnerable fruiting crops with the planting calendar to dodge peak numbers, and pick damaged fruit promptly so it does not rot on the plant.

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