Dill is one of the easiest herbs to grow from seed, but it has one firm requirement: direct sowing. It dislikes being moved once established, and transplants often stall or fail to produce the flush of foliage you expect. Sow it where it will grow, give it sun and wind protection, and keep successions going, and dill will reward you with feathery leaves for pickling, cooking, and cut arrangements from early summer through fall.
For variety information and flavor differences between 'Fernleaf' (compact, slow-bolt) and standard tall varieties, see the dill plant profile.
When to plant dill
Dill is a cool-to-warm season annual that tolerates light frost as a seedling but establishes best in moderate temperatures. Per University of Minnesota Extension guidance:
- Spring: Begin sowing after danger of frost has passed and soil has warmed to at least 60°F.
- Succession sowing: Continue sowing every 2-3 weeks through midsummer for a continuous harvest of fresh foliage.
- Fall: A late summer sowing 6-8 weeks before your first fall frost gives a final flush of leaves before cold arrives.
Site and soil
- Sun: Dill needs at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. It is a tall, open plant that does not compete well in shade.
- Wind protection: The hollow stalks can reach 3-5 feet and blow over easily. Choose a spot sheltered from strong winds, or plan to stake plants. A spot near a fence, wall, or taller plants works well.
- Soil: Well-drained, slightly acidic soil rich in organic matter. Dill does not require particularly rich conditions; as with most herbs, moderate fertility is better than excessive fertilizing.
- Containers: Growing dill indoors or in containers is possible with adequate light. Use fairly deep pots (the taproot is long), ensure good drainage, and be prepared to stake plants since indoor dill will be taller and spindlier than outdoor.
How to sow dill
Direct seeding is the right approach. Dill forms a taproot early and does not recover well from transplanting, even as a very young seedling.
Direct-sowing dill
Choose a permanent spot
Pick your location before sowing since you will not be moving these plants. A spot protected from wind, receiving 6-8 hours of sun.
Sow at quarter-inch depth
Plant seeds one-quarter inch deep in rows 2 feet apart. University of Minnesota Extension specifies this row spacing to give tall plants adequate air circulation.
Keep soil moist
Seeds germinate in 10-14 days. Keep the seedbed evenly moist until germination; do not let it dry out.
Thin when 2 inches tall
When seedlings reach 2 inches, thin them to 10-12 inches apart. Per University of Minnesota Extension, this final spacing prevents overcrowding and gives each plant room to develop its full canopy of foliage.
Stake if needed
In exposed spots, stake plants when they reach 18 inches to prevent wind damage.
Watering and feeding
Keep soil free of weeds and relatively moist during establishment. Once dill is growing strongly, it is reasonably drought tolerant. Do not overwater: dill does not like wet feet.
Feeding needs are minimal. University of Minnesota Extension notes that most herbs including dill do not require frequent fertilizing. A single light application of a balanced fertilizer (5-10-5 at 3 oz per 10 feet of row) in late spring is sufficient for in-ground plants. For containers, use a liquid fertilizer at half label strength every 4-6 weeks.
Harvesting
Harvesting dill foliage and seeds
Harvest foliage anytime
Per University of Minnesota Extension, harvest green dill foliage anytime during the growing season until the umbrella-like flower clusters open. Once flowers open fully, leaf flavor drops off.
Use fresh quickly
Dill loses flavor faster than most herbs after cutting. Use it fresh as soon after picking as possible for best flavor. Drying loses most flavor though bright color usually remains.
Harvest seeds before fully ripe
To harvest seeds, cut flower stalks just before seeds begin to ripen and turn tan. Hang stalks upside down in a warm, well-ventilated room with a paper bag loosely fastened around the flower heads to catch seeds as they drop.
Store seeds dry
Make sure seeds are completely dry before storing. Keep in an airtight container away from heat and light for up to a year.
For pickling
Place a whole green flower head and leaves in each pickling jar. The head should still be green and flexible, with flowers giving way to seeds but not yet fully mature.
Self-seeding: dill's best trick
Dill self-seeds prolifically. If you allow one or two plants per succession to bolt and mature fully, they will scatter seeds that germinate in spring and fall when soil temperatures are right. A self-seeding dill patch, once established, needs very little management: thin volunteers to 10-12 inches, harvest what you need, let a few go to seed, repeat.
Companion planting
Dill is a noted companion for brassicas. Its flowers attract beneficial insects, including parasitic wasps that prey on cabbage worms and other pests. Avoid planting dill near carrots (they cross-pollinate and can reduce carrot quality) or near tomatoes (dill reportedly inhibits tomato growth once it matures and begins flowering). More on this in the companion planting guide.
Common problems
Aphids: Soft-bodied insects clustering on soft new growth and flower stems. Dill's flowers attract aphid predators naturally; tolerate minor infestations unless populations explode. See aphids.
Powdery mildew: White powdery coating on foliage, most common in crowded, humid conditions. Prevent with proper spacing and good air circulation. See powdery mildew.
Damping off: Seedlings collapsing at soil level, most often in cold, wet conditions. Ensure good drainage, avoid overwatering after germination, and allow soil surface to dry slightly between waterings. See damping off in seedlings.
Wind damage: Tall plants in exposed locations can topple or snap. Stake plants proactively in windy spots.
Why does my dill die after flowering?
Dill is an annual with a natural life cycle that ends after it sets seed. Flowering and seed production are the endpoint of its lifecycle. The way to maintain a continuous supply is succession sowing every 2-3 weeks and allowing self-seeding. You are not doing anything wrong; dill simply lives fast.
Can I transplant dill seedlings?
It is possible when seedlings are very young (at the cotyledon stage, before the taproot has established), but not recommended. The taproot is fragile and transplant shock frequently causes setback or failure. Direct sowing where plants will grow is always the better approach.
How do I keep dill producing leaves without it going to seed?
Pinch out flower buds as soon as they form. This delays seed production and extends the leaf harvest window. Succession planting every 2-3 weeks is ultimately more reliable, since you always have a young batch coming on while older plants go to seed.
When should I harvest dill for pickling?
Use whole green flower heads that are still flexible, with seeds beginning to form but not yet fully ripe. If you want dill weed (foliage), harvest before any flower clusters open. Both are used in different pickle recipes; the flower head is the classic dill pickle choice.
Will dill come back next year?
Dill itself is an annual and will not regrow from the roots. However, it self-seeds very freely. Let a few plants in each succession mature and scatter seeds and you will have volunteer seedlings the following season, often with no effort on your part.
The bottom line
Direct-sow dill after your last frost, thin to 10-12 inches, harvest foliage before flowers open, and keep a succession going every 2-3 weeks. Let a few plants go to seed each season and the patch will largely perpetuate itself. It is one of the most low-maintenance herbs in the garden once you understand its lifecycle.