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How to grow cilantro (and keep it from bolting)

Cilantro thrives in cool weather and direct-sown every 2-3 weeks. Space plants 7-10 inches apart, shade from afternoon heat, and succession-plant for a season-long harvest.

By Joel KellyUpdated Jun 13, 20267 min readResearch backed
How to grow cilantro (and keep it from bolting)

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Cilantro is one of those herbs that confuses even experienced gardeners. You plant it, it looks great for two weeks, then suddenly it's 18 inches tall with flowers and bitter leaves. That is bolting, and it is almost always a timing and temperature problem, not a technique problem. Get the timing right, use succession planting, and cilantro goes from frustrating to effortless.

See the cilantro plant profile for a quick reference on variety selection and flavor differences between leaf (cilantro) and seed (coriander) harvest.

When to plant cilantro

Cilantro is a cool-season annual. It grows best when daytime temperatures stay between 65 and 75°F and bolts quickly once soil temperatures approach 75°F. That means you have two planting windows each year: a spring window before heat arrives, and a fall window after it breaks.

Site and soil

Cilantro is flexible about soil but does have preferences:

  • Sun: Full sun in cool climates. In warm climates (zones 7-10), afternoon shade is not optional: the University of Maryland Extension specifically recommends planting where cilantro will receive light afternoon shade to slow bolting.
  • Soil: Average, well-drained garden soil. Cilantro does not need rich soil; excessive nitrogen produces lush but bolt-prone plants.
  • Drainage: Good drainage is important. Cilantro dislikes wet feet and is susceptible to root rot in poorly drained spots.
  • Containers: Cilantro grows well in containers at least 8 inches deep. Containers are useful because you can move them to a shadier spot in warming weather.

How to sow

Direct sowing is strongly preferred. Cilantro has a long taproot and does not transplant reliably. Start seeds where the plants will grow.

1

Prepare the bed

Loosen soil to 6 inches, remove weeds. Cilantro needs good contact between seed and soil.

2

Sow seeds shallowly

Press seeds (which are actually two seeds fused together) about one-quarter inch deep. Rows work well for succession planting; broadcast sowing works for a dense patch.

3

Water gently

Keep the seedbed evenly moist. Seeds germinate in 7-10 days at soil temperatures of 55-65°F.

4

Thin to 7-10 inches

Once seedlings are 2 inches tall, thin to 7-10 inches apart. University of Maryland Extension recommends this spacing for healthy, productive plants. Crowded plants bolt faster and are more prone to disease.

5

Mark your sow dates

Because succession planting is the core strategy, keep a simple log or use the [planting calendar](/tools/planting-calendar) to schedule your next sowing 2-3 weeks out.

Succession planting: the only real solution to bolting

A single planting of cilantro will give you a few weeks of leaves before bolting. The only reliable fix for a continuous supply is succession planting: sow a new small batch every 2-3 weeks throughout your cool growing window. Three or four successions in spring, three or four in fall, staggered by a few weeks, gives you fresh leaves from early spring through late fall.

If your spring heats up fast, extend the window by choosing a partially shaded spot for your later sowings. The shade delay is modest, but it is worth it.

Watering and feeding

Cilantro needs consistent moisture but not wet soil. Water when the top inch of soil dries out. Inconsistent watering stresses plants and accelerates bolting.

Feeding is rarely needed. Cilantro is a light feeder; rich soil or heavy fertilizing encourages lush growth that is more prone to bolting. If growth seems slow, a single light application of balanced fertilizer mid-season is enough.

Harvesting

1

Start early

Begin harvesting when plants reach 4-6 inches tall. Snip outer leaves and stems first, leaving the inner growing point intact. This is the cut-and-come-again approach.

2

Pinch flower stems

If a flower stalk begins to form, pinch it off as soon as you see it. University of Maryland Extension notes this extends the leaf harvest. Once the plant is fully committed to flowering, leaf quality drops quickly.

3

Harvest often

Frequent harvesting encourages new leaf growth and delays the onset of bolting. A plant that is regularly cut stays in leaf mode longer than one left untouched.

4

Coriander seeds

If you want coriander seeds, allow plants from one succession to bolt and flower fully. Harvest seed heads when they turn tan and dry. Seeds are fully mature when they turn brown.

The bolting problem, explained

Bolting is triggered primarily by temperature, not age. When soil temperatures climb above about 75°F, cilantro shifts resources from leaf production to flowering and seed set. Long days (more than 14 hours of daylight) contribute too, but heat is the main driver.

Slow-bolt varieties such as 'Slow Bolt' or 'Santo' can extend your window by a week or two, but they are not a substitute for succession sowing in warm climates.

Common problems

Aphids: Small clusters of soft-bodied insects on new growth and flower stems. See the aphids guide for identification and control.

Powdery mildew: White powdery coating on leaves, most common in crowded or humid conditions. Good spacing and airflow prevent most cases. See powdery mildew.

Bolting early: The main issue covered above. Cause is almost always heat, followed by inconsistent watering or overcrowding.

Damping off: Seedlings collapse at soil level in cool, wet conditions. Use well-draining soil and avoid overwatering right after germination. See damping off in seedlings.

Why does my cilantro bolt so fast?

Heat is the primary cause. Cilantro shifts to flower production when soil temperatures climb above about 75°F. The fix is a combination of timing (sow in genuinely cool weather), site choice (afternoon shade in warm climates), and succession planting every 2-3 weeks so you always have a new batch coming on. Slow-bolt varieties can add a week or two, but they do not solve the underlying problem.

Can I grow cilantro in a container?

Yes, cilantro grows well in containers at least 8 inches deep. Containers are actually an advantage in warm climates because you can move them to a shaded spot as temperatures rise. Use a well-draining potting mix, water more frequently than you would in-ground, and succession-sow in the same pot by direct seeding over existing plants as they finish.

Does cilantro come back every year?

Cilantro is an annual, so it does not come back from the roots. However, it self-seeds freely if you allow plants to flower and set seed. Volunteer seedlings often appear in spring or fall at exactly the right temperatures for growing, making it feel self-sustaining in a well-established garden.

When should I harvest cilantro leaves versus letting it go to seed?

Harvest leaves when the plant is 4-6 inches tall, cutting from the outside in. Once a flower stalk forms, pinch it if you want more leaves, or let the plant complete its cycle if you want coriander seeds. From one succession, consider harvesting leaves heavily early on, then allowing the plant to bolt so you collect seeds and volunteers.

Can I grow cilantro indoors?

Yes, with a strong grow light. A south-facing window is rarely enough, especially in winter. Cilantro grown in low light gets leggy and has less flavor. If you grow it indoors, give it the same light conditions you would use for starting seeds indoors: a grow light kept close to the canopy for 14-16 hours a day.

The bottom line

Cilantro success comes down to three things: sow in cool weather, give afternoon shade in warm climates, and keep a succession going every 2-3 weeks. A single planting is always going to disappoint you. A staggered succession planted across your cool season will keep fresh leaves on your counter from spring through fall.

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