Parsley has a reputation for being difficult that rests almost entirely on one thing: its slow germination. Seeds take 2-5 weeks to sprout, and if you are not expecting that, you assume something went wrong and dig them up. Leave them alone, keep the bed moist, and they will come up. After that initial wait, parsley is one of the most dependable and cold-tolerant herbs in the garden.
See the parsley plant profile for a comparison of curly, Italian flat-leaf, and Hamburg (root) types.
When to plant parsley
Parsley is a cool-season biennial that handles light frost well and continues growing into fall in most climates.
- Indoor start: 6-8 weeks before last spring frost. Transplant outdoors after frost danger passes.
- Direct sow: After last frost date, when soil has warmed slightly. Germination will be slow regardless.
- Fall planting: In zones 7 and warmer, a late-summer sowing provides a fall and winter harvest. Plants often overwinter and provide early spring growth before bolting in their second year.
Site and soil
- Sun: Parsley grows best with 6-8 hours of direct light but tolerates some light shade, making it one of the more shade-adaptable herbs. See growing vegetables in shade if your garden is partially shaded.
- Soil: Well-drained, rich in organic matter. Parsley is a heavier feeder than cilantro or dill and benefits from compost-amended soil.
- Containers: Parsley grows well indoors and in outdoor containers. Use pots with good drainage and a rich potting mix. For containers, University of Minnesota Extension recommends liquid fertilizer at half strength every 3-4 weeks outdoors, every 4-6 weeks indoors.
- Drainage: Good drainage is important. Like most herbs, parsley is prone to root rot in waterlogged soil.
Overcoming slow germination
The main obstacle to growing parsley from seed is expecting it to act like basil or cilantro. It does not.
Getting parsley seeds to germinate reliably
Use fresh seed
Parsley seed is short-lived. University of Maryland Extension notes that viability drops significantly after 1-2 years. Always start with fresh seed from the current season.
Soak seeds overnight
Soaking seeds in warm water for up to 24 hours before planting softens the seed coat and can significantly speed germination. University of Minnesota Extension recommends this step.
Sow at shallow depth
Cover seeds with only one-eighth inch of soil. Deeper sowing slows emergence.
Keep consistently moist
The number-one reason parsley seeds fail is a dry seedbed. Water daily if necessary to keep the surface from drying out during the 2-5 week wait.
Mark the row
University of Minnesota Extension specifically notes that because germination is so slow, it is a good idea to mark the rows. Unmarked beds often get accidentally disturbed.
Be patient
Germination can take anywhere from 2 to 5 weeks depending on seed freshness and soil temperature. This is normal.
Planting and spacing
Whether you are transplanting indoor starts or thinning direct-sown seedlings, final spacing should be 10-12 inches apart, per University of Minnesota Extension. This gives each plant adequate air circulation and room for the full clump to develop.
Emerging seedlings look almost grass-like at first, with two narrow seed leaves. Thin or transplant when they are 2-3 inches tall.
If you are growing curly parsley in a border or container for ornamental purposes, note that it typically grows 8-14 inches tall and forms a dense clump. Italian flat-leaf parsley can reach 2-3 feet and is more open in habit, so it needs more space.
Watering and feeding
Watering: University of Minnesota Extension recommends watering deeply at least once a week to ensure roots receive adequate moisture. Do not let plants dry out completely between waterings. A light mulch of shredded leaves or grass clippings helps retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Feeding: Parsley benefits from moderate fertilizing. For in-ground plants, apply a 5-10-5 fertilizer (3 oz per 10 feet of row) once or twice during the growing season. For containers, use liquid fertilizer at half strength every 3-4 weeks outdoors or every 4-6 weeks indoors.
Harvesting
Harvesting parsley correctly
Start with outer stalks
Always harvest outer stalks first, snipping them close to the base. University of Minnesota Extension specifically notes this approach: cutting just the tops leaves stalk stubs that reduce plant productivity.
Snip close to the base
Cut whole stalks rather than just the leafy tips. This stimulates new growth from the center of the plant throughout the season.
Harvest throughout the season
Parsley is productive from early summer through fall. The plants handle light frosts and remain green and useful into late autumn.
Second year is more bitter
If plants overwinter and resprout, harvest promptly in spring. University of Minnesota Extension notes that second-year parsley becomes more bitter and should be harvested before the plant sends up its seed stalk and completes its biennial cycle.
The biennial lifecycle
Parsley is technically a biennial: it grows leaves the first year, overwinters, then flowers and sets seed in the second year before dying. In most gardens it is grown as an annual because:
- Second-year leaves are more bitter than first-year.
- Second-year plants bolt quickly in spring and become less productive.
- Cold winters in zones 2-5 often kill plants before they can complete their second year.
In zones 6-9, parsley often survives winter and will give you a brief spring harvest before bolting. It is worth leaving overwintered plants in place for that early spring production, but plan to replace them with fresh transplants or seedlings for the main season.
Growing parsley indoors
Parsley grows well as an indoor herb year-round with adequate light. It needs a location that receives 6-8 hours of direct light or a grow light. Indoor plants will be somewhat spindler than outdoor, but flavor and usefulness are good. This makes it a practical herb to keep on a kitchen windowsill, particularly in winter when outdoor herbs are unavailable.
If you are setting up an indoor herb garden with a grow light, parsley pairs well with basil and mint under the same fixture, though mint should be in its own pot.
Common problems
Aphids: Colonies on new growth and the underside of leaves. Natural predators usually keep them in check; intervene if populations build. See aphids.
Leaf miners: Winding pale tunnels inside leaves, caused by leaf miner larvae. Remove and destroy affected leaves. Floating row cover prevents adults from laying eggs. See leaf miners.
Damping off: Seedling collapse at soil level in cool, wet conditions. Use well-drained mix and water carefully during germination. See damping off in seedlings.
Why is my parsley not germinating?
Parsley genuinely takes 2-5 weeks to germinate, depending on seed freshness and conditions. The most common reasons for failure are: seed that is more than 2 years old (parsley seed viability drops quickly), a dry seedbed during the waiting period, and sowing too deep. Soak fresh seeds for 24 hours before planting, keep the bed consistently moist, and wait.
Is parsley a perennial?
Parsley is a biennial. It grows leaves in year one, overwinters in mild climates (zones 6 and warmer), and then flowers and dies in year two. Because second-year plants bolt quickly and the leaves become more bitter, most gardeners grow it as an annual, starting fresh from seed or transplants each spring.
Can I grow parsley in a container?
Yes. Parsley does well in containers with good drainage. Curly parsley is particularly attractive in pots and window boxes. Use a potting mix with good drainage, water consistently, and fertilize with a liquid fertilizer at half strength every 3-4 weeks. Container parsley grown indoors needs at least 6-8 hours of bright light or a grow light.
What is the difference between curly and flat-leaf parsley?
Curly parsley (Petroselinum crispum) grows 8-14 inches tall, forms a dense clump, and is mild in flavor. It is the classic garnish. Italian flat-leaf parsley (P. neapolitanum) grows 2-3 feet tall, has a stronger, sweeter flavor, and is preferred for cooking. Both are grown the same way; flat-leaf simply needs more space.
When should I harvest parsley to keep it producing?
Harvest regularly throughout the growing season, always taking outer stalks first and snipping them close to the base. This stimulates new growth from the center of the plant. If you only remove the tops, leaving stalk stubs, the plant becomes less productive over time.
The bottom line
Parsley is not difficult. Its reputation comes entirely from germination: it takes 2-5 weeks, which tests patience. Soak seeds, mark your rows, keep the bed moist, and wait. Once plants are established, parsley is cold-hardy, productive from midsummer through late fall, and one of the most useful culinary herbs you can grow.