Mint is simultaneously one of the easiest herbs to grow and one of the most destructive garden plants if you are not careful. It is impossible to kill, returns faithfully every spring, and rewards harvesting with more growth. The catch is that it spreads aggressively by underground stolons (runners), and a mint plant left unchecked for two seasons can colonize a bed completely, crowding out everything around it.
The fix is simple: contain it from the start. Container growing or the buried-pot method keeps mint productive and bounded without any ongoing battle.
See the mint plant profile for a comparison of peppermint, spearmint, and other varieties.
When to plant mint
Mint is a cold-hardy perennial (zones 3-9 for most varieties) and can be planted in spring after your last frost date. It can also be planted in fall where winters are mild. Because mint is almost never grown from seed (seed-grown mint has variable and often inferior flavor), you will typically start from:
- Divisions: Splitting a mature plant from a friend, neighbor, or established garden.
- Cuttings: Root stem or stolon clippings in water or moist soil.
- Nursery transplants: The simplest option for specific named varieties.
The containment imperative
This is the single most important thing to understand about growing mint:
If you want mint in the ground rather than in a pot, the buried-pot method works well:
The buried-pot containment method
Choose a large pot
Select a plastic pot at least 12-16 inches in diameter. Remove the bottom completely.
Dig a hole
Dig a hole in your garden bed deep enough to sink the pot so that about one inch of the rim sits above soil level.
Plant mint inside
Plant your mint inside the buried pot. The above-ground rim forces runners up and over the edge where you can see and trim them before they root into surrounding soil.
Check runners regularly
Inspect the pot rim every few weeks during the growing season. Trim any runners that have crept over the edge before they root.
Site and soil
- Sun: University of Maryland Extension notes that mint grows in sun or shade but will be at its most productive in full sun. Part shade is fine and can be useful in hot climates.
- Soil: Rich, moist soil. Mint is more moisture-tolerant than most herbs and does well in spots that are slightly damp, though it should not sit in standing water.
- Containers: If growing in a freestanding container rather than a buried pot, use a potting mix with good moisture retention. Containers dry out faster than in-ground soil, so mint in pots needs more frequent watering.
Or, if you prefer a self-watering container to reduce watering frequency:
Planting
Set plants 18 inches apart (University of Maryland Extension). If you are planting a single mint in a 12-16 inch container, one plant is typically sufficient: mint fills its container quickly.
Propagation by division or cuttings is easy and free:
- Division: Dig up a mature clump in spring or fall, separate sections with roots attached, and replant.
- Cuttings: Snip a 4-6 inch stem, strip lower leaves, and place in a glass of water in a bright spot. Roots develop in 1-2 weeks.
Watering and feeding
Mint prefers consistent moisture, especially in containers. Do not let container-grown mint dry out completely; it will wilt dramatically but usually recovers with watering.
Feeding is light. A top-dress of compost in spring is usually sufficient for established in-ground mint. For container mint, a liquid fertilizer at half label strength every 4-6 weeks through the growing season keeps growth productive.
Harvesting
Harvesting mint
Pick leaves and stem tips anytime
University of Maryland Extension notes that fresh leaves and leafy stem tips can be used any time during the growing season. There is no wrong time to harvest mint.
Harvest regularly
Regular and frequent harvesting encourages bushy, full growth. A mint plant left unharvested for weeks will grow tall, leggy, and less flavorful.
Cut back after flowering
For drying, University of Maryland Extension recommends cutting leaves just as flowers begin to appear; this is when oil content is highest. After the plant flowers, cut stems back by about one-third to one-half to refresh it and encourage new leafy growth.
Hard rejuvenation
In late summer or fall, cut all stems back to a few inches above the soil. This prevents woody, leggy stems and produces a fresh flush of growth in the following season.
Variety notes
Peppermint (Mentha piperita): Upright stems reaching 2 feet or more, dark green leaves, reddish stems, characteristic warm spicy scent. Used in tea and flavoring. University of Maryland Extension notes it grows best in rich, moist soil but adapts to most conditions.
Spearmint (Mentha spicata): Pointed, slightly crinkled lighter-green leaves with a characteristic sweet smell. Used in teas, cold drinks, and mint sauce. Grows best in somewhat moist soil with full sun to part shade.
Other named varieties (chocolate mint, apple mint, lemon mint, and others) are grown the same way. All spread aggressively and all benefit from containment.
Overwintering
Most mint varieties are cold-hardy to zones 3-9. In-ground or buried-pot mint will die back to the ground after frost and re-emerge in spring. Container mint overwintered in a pot can be moved to a sheltered unheated garage, or left outdoors in climates where the container will not freeze solid. University of Maryland Extension specifically notes that a large unglazed clay pot or large plastic bucket sunk into the ground can be left in place over winter, since mints are quite winter-hardy.
Indoor mint
Mint grown indoors year-round is possible but requires a strong light source. A sunny south-facing window works in summer; supplement with a grow light in winter. Contained in a pot and regularly harvested, indoor mint can be productive year-round. This makes it a practical companion to indoor parsley and basil. See starting seeds indoors for notes on grow light setup that applies equally to established herbs.
Common problems
Aphids: Colonies on soft new growth. Natural predators often control them; blast off with water or treat if populations build. See aphids.
Spider mites: Tiny mites causing stippled, yellowing leaves, most common in hot, dry conditions. Increase humidity and water plants well; treat with insecticidal soap if needed. See spider mites.
Powdery mildew: White powdery coating on leaves, particularly in humid or crowded conditions. Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering. See powdery mildew.
Root rot: In containers with poor drainage or overwatered plants. Ensure pots drain freely and allow the top inch of soil to dry between waterings. See root rot.
Mint rust: Orange or rusty pustules on leaves, caused by a fungal pathogen. Remove affected leaves promptly and improve air circulation. A badly affected plant is best replaced.
Will mint take over my garden?
Yes, if planted directly in the ground without containment. Mint spreads by underground runners (stolons) that can travel several feet in a single season and resprout from root fragments. The University of Maryland Extension specifically recommends growing it in a container or using the buried-pot method to prevent it from taking over.
Can I grow mint in a pot?
Yes, and it is the recommended approach. Use a container at least 12-16 inches in diameter with good drainage. Mint grows vigorously in containers, needs consistent moisture (containers dry faster than in-ground soil), and should be refreshed with new potting mix every 2-3 years as growth becomes root-bound.
Does mint come back every year?
Yes. Most mint varieties are perennial and cold-hardy to zones 3-9. In-ground mint dies back to the ground after hard frost and reliably re-emerges in spring. Container mint overwintered in a sheltered spot behaves the same way.
How do I keep mint bushy rather than tall and leggy?
Harvest regularly and frequently. University of Maryland Extension notes that regular harvesting encourages bushy, full growth. Cut stems back after flowering to refresh the plant. In fall, cut all stems back to a few inches above soil level to set up a strong re-emergence next spring.
Which mint is best for cooking versus tea?
Spearmint is the standard culinary choice: it is the mint in mint sauce, tabbouleh, mojitos, and most savory cooking. Peppermint has a stronger menthol flavor that works well in tea and desserts. Both are grown identically; flavor is purely a matter of culinary preference.
The bottom line
Mint is perhaps the most fool-proof herb in the garden: it is perennial, cold-hardy, grows in sun or shade, and returns every spring without any help. The only thing you need to get right is containment. Grow it in a 12-16 inch container or use the buried-pot method, harvest regularly, and cut it back hard after flowering, and mint will reward you with fresh leaves from spring through fall for years.