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How to grow strawberries

Grow strawberries by choosing the right fruiting habit, setting crowns correctly, directing runners, renovating dense beds, and protecting ripening fruit.

By Joel KellyUpdated Jul 31, 20265 min read1 source

Evidence checked against University of Minnesota Extension. Review the source record.

How to grow strawberries
On this page7 sections

Strawberries are not one management system. A bed intended to renew itself through runners needs different handling from a compact day-neutral planting or a patio container. Choose the fruiting habit first, then decide whether runners are future plants or energy you want redirected into fruit.

Choose a fruiting habit

June-bearing plants make a concentrated crop and produce runners readily. They suit a renewable matted-row bed and gardeners who want a large preserving harvest.

Day-neutral plants flower and fruit repeatedly while conditions support growth. They suit containers and tidy rows where runners are removed so energy stays with the crowns.

Everbearing plants generally provide separated flushes rather than the continuous pattern implied by the name. Read the cultivar description because retailers sometimes use day-neutral and everbearing loosely.

1

Choose the harvest pattern

Decide whether you want one concentrated crop or repeated smaller pickings.
2

Choose the renewal method

Keep selected runners for a matted row, or remove them for a compact fruiting plant.
3

Choose the work level

Dense beds need renovation and disease scouting; containers need more frequent moisture checks.

Set the crown at the soil line

Spread bare roots downward and outward rather than folding them into a tight hole. The crown, where leaves meet roots, should sit at the finished soil surface. A buried crown can rot; an exposed root system dries out.

Water the root area after planting and recheck the crown after the soil settles. Pull soil back if it has washed over the center, or tuck exposed roots under loose soil without covering the crown.

For containers, use a free-draining potting mix and a vessel with enough openings that water cannot pool around the crowns.

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Best for

Container growers who want cheap, breathable bags for tomatoes, peppers, or potatoes.

The container gardening guide covers pot and mix selection.

Decide what every runner should do

Runners are horizontal stems that form daughter plants. In a renewing bed, guide selected daughters into open soil and remove extras that create dense layers. In a container or compact row, cut runners close to the mother plant so its energy remains in fruit and crown growth.

Mulch without smothering crowns

Clean mulch keeps fruit away from mud, reduces splash, and slows moisture loss. Tuck it under developing clusters while keeping the crown exposed. Remove decaying fruit and old leaves so wet organic matter does not collect at the plant center.

See the mulching guide for material and application choices.

Check moisture below the mulch and water the root area rather than the leaves. Dense foliage that stays wet favors gray mold and other leaf and fruit diseases.

Renovate instead of accepting a thicket

After a June-bearing crop, remove diseased foliage, thin weak crowns, guide the best daughters into open spaces, and restore a narrow, reachable row. Renovation keeps light and air moving through the patch and replaces declining plants without letting runners occupy every path.

Day-neutral and everbearing plantings need lighter cleanup. Remove spent leaves, unwanted runners, and damaged crowns rather than cutting the entire canopy.

Protect and pick ripe fruit

Check beneath leaves frequently because berries can color out of sight. Pick when the fruit has developed full variety color and releases with a gentle pull. Keep the cap attached, handle the berry by the stem or shoulders, and place it directly into a shallow container.

Cool harvested berries promptly. Store them unwashed and rinse only before eating, since extra surface moisture accelerates decay.

Troubleshoot the patch

  • Gray mold coats flowers or fruit with fuzzy growth. Remove affected material and help foliage dry quickly.
  • Slugs chew ripe fruit near the soil. Keep mulch clean, remove hiding places, and harvest promptly.
  • Anthracnose can damage crowns, runners, and fruit. Remove infected plants and avoid moving their runners elsewhere.
  • Aphids distort young growth and can spread plant viruses.
  • Spider mites cause pale stippling during hot, dry stress.

For a cane fruit with a different renewal system, see raspberry. Avoid using nearby pepper plants as a care model; fruiting habit and crown management are fundamentally different.

What is the difference between June-bearing and day-neutral strawberries?

June-bearing plants concentrate their crop and readily renew a matted row through runners. Day-neutral plants fruit repeatedly and are usually managed as individual crowns with runners removed. Everbearing labels vary, so read the cultivar description.

Should I remove strawberry runners?

Remove them from containers and compact fruiting rows. In a renewable June-bearing bed, keep selected daughters and direct them into open positions, then remove the extras before the patch becomes dense.

Why are strawberries small or misshapen?

Possible causes include incomplete pollination, crowded crowns, moisture stress, weak foliage, or pest injury. Check the whole cluster and plant before adding fertilizer. Dense beds often improve after thinning and renovation.

Can strawberries grow well in containers?

Yes. Containers make runner control and fruit access easier, but they require attentive moisture checks and clear drainage. Keep crowns at the surface and refresh congested plants rather than allowing roots and runners to fill every opening.

Evidence trail

Sources behind this guide

Original publications behind the technique, care, harvest, and troubleshooting guidance in this guide. Each source opens to the original publisher.

  1. Growing strawberries in the home garden

    University of Minnesota Extension · Checked Jun 11, 2026

    Supports setting crowns at the soil surface, managing runners by harvest system, mulching without burying crowns, renovating June-bearing beds, and diagnosing gray mold, slugs, anthracnose, aphids, and spider mites.

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